Microblading & permanent make up on skin of colour

There is a myth saying that melanated skin ( skin type 4 to 6 on Fitzpatrich skin scale) is not suitable for Microblading. As a technician who has been working with all skin types and colours since 2017, I can say that the myth is only partly correct. Microblading tends to heal poorly on darker skin because this skin tends to produce greater amounts of sebum and oil, which can encourage pigment migration, making the microbladed hair stroke blend into each other . However other permanent makeup techniques such as Ombre or Hair Stroke or Nano hairstroke can give a beautiful healing result when the treatments are carried out properly. 

There are some factors that artists have to take into consideration when working with this skin tone. Firstly it is the severe inflammatory reaction to trauma, known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which results in skin discolouration. When working with this skin I tend to fill color in one section at a time, before moving to the next section, this working method helps to minimise the risk of PIH.

Also, when working with lighter skin tones, it is easier for the artists to pay attention to visual cues, such as redness and bruising. However , the cues can look different when working on skin of colours, making it easy for artists to overwork the skin by accident.

Overworking skin means either too much pigment is deposited, or too much pressure is applied, both resulting in the ashy or cool tone of the brows when healed.

It is important to remember to check out for blood, swelling, and excessive lymph when working with this skin tone. Normally when I spot any of these I would give the client’s skin a break and will finish the session to advise the client to come back on another session.

If I am working with a machine I can also reduce the speed of my machine and lighten my pressure whenever I see those signals. Working too aggressively will only result in hypopigmentation- skin looks lighter due to trauma, which can be permanent if the melanocytes are destroyed completely.

If the clients like the haistroke look, either by Microblade tools or by machine, I tend to keep a good space between each stroke until the skin is healed. Then you can clearly see each stroke and which one needs enhancement at the touch up appointment.

A good choice of colour for melanin-rich skin is black with few drops of red or orange, black brown is also a very good colour choice. All-black pigment is not a good choice as it leads to a cold and ashy healing result.

In conclusion, Microblading is not recommended on melanin-rich skin as it is more likely to scar, discolours or keloid scarring. The best choices are Machine stroke and powder brows as they are less traumatic to this skin and still achieve the define look.

Ref: Dior Davenport’s article about “ What should I be aware of when performing semi-permanent brow treatments on skin of colour?”